Narrative describing Kori creek
to Lakhpat (362-366) with SE quadrant of the Carless' map:
Carless, T. G.,(1838) Memoir to Accompany the Survey of
the Delta of the Indus, in 1837, J.
Roy. Geog. Soc London, 8, 328-366.
The Kori, or eastern branch of the Indus, was surveyed
and as it exhibits some physical peculiarities not observable in any of the
other rivers, I shall conclude this paper with a short description of it. The
Kori, which separates Sind from Kachchh, once formed the lower part of the
Feleili, and it also received the waters of a large branch thrown off by the main
river during the inundation near B'hkur: the beds of both these branches are now
partially filled up throughout the whole line of their course, and the portion
of water they receive during the swell is prevented from passing into the Kori by
bands [bunds or dams] that have been thrown across them by the Sindians. The
alterations caused in this branch by the earthquake of 1819 increased its magnitude so much, that
it became a small gulf or arm of the sea, and it now gives a better idea of a great
river than any other branch of the Indus. At its mouth it is 6 miles wide, and
the Sind coast, being very low, is not visible from the Kachchh side: it begins
to contract at Kotasir and continues to do so up to Lakhpat, a fortified town
situated 39 miles from the sea, where it diminishes to a narrow stream, 200 yards
wide, and is so shallow that, if the bottom were firm, it might be forded at low
water in several places without difficulty.
The broad bank fronting the coast of
the Delta extends right across the entrance, and terminates a short distance
below it on the shores of Kachchh: in many places the sand-banks are dry at low
tide, and the sea outside them is very shallow, there not being a greater depth
than 5 fathoms 8 miles from the land. Two channels, the Adhiyaru and Sur [Sir],lead
out of the river across this mass of shoals; they are broad and deep, having a
depth of 20 feet in the shallowest part, which is on the bar at their mouths.
Above the part where these two channels separate, the river for some miles has
a depth of 7 and 8 and in some places 14 fathoms, and there are no sand-banks
until you arrive at Kotasir: near this town the bed of the stream is extremely
foul, and vessels of any size are prevented from ascending higher by several
shallow bars or ridges, that reach across it in a lateral direction from side
to side. A short distance above these, extensive flats of soft mud occupy half
the breadth of the river, and the channels being narrow and intricate, the
difficulty of the navigation increases every mile as you advance towards
Lakhpat
During the neaps the
tides are very irregular; they run at a rate of from 2 to 3 miles, vary in
duration from 4 to 8 hours, and rise sometimes 9 feet, but at others only 6. On
the springs they are alternately weak and strong, and in the latter case, when
they have a velocity of 6 miles, they continue to flow for a period of 8 hours:
this is caused by the sudden influx of water from the ocean during the night,
when they attain their greatest height. At Kotasir there is a rise and fall of 10
feet, and at the mouth of the
river it increases to 13, but at Lakhpat it does not exceed 4. The Kori is
navigable for vessels drawing 16 feet to within a short distance of Kotasir,
but they could not proceed any higher on account of the bars stretching across
the stream from side to side: even the country boats that frequent it, which
seldom draw more than 6 or 7 feet, are obliged to remain at that town and send
up their cargoes to Lakhpat in dundis.
About the mouth of
this branch the land is low and swampy: on the Sind side it is overrun with a
dense mass of stunted mangrove bushes and overflowed by every tide: the Kachchh
shore for some miles is a mere ridge of loose sand thrown up between the river
and a broad tract of marsh land intersected with small creeks, that extends
from Kotasir to Jakau. None of these creeks have any communication with the
Kori; but the largest, which reaches the sea a few miles below the mouth of
that river, affords a passage for the boats of the country to Jakau, a seaport
town of some importance in the N.W. extremity of Kachchh. Along that part of
the sandy ridge exposed to the action of the sea, the beach is literally
covered with heaps of clay balls that have apparently been formed by the waves
rolling the small pieces of clay, detached from the banks and thrown up here,
on the smooth firm sand.
About the mouth of the
river the country on the Sind side, up to Lakhpat, is low and flat, and thinly
covered with saline shrubs or the decayed trunks of bushes that have been
destroyed by the salt water: this part of the Delta is evidently depressed
below the level of the rest, which is to be attributed to the effects of the
earthquake of 1819, and being from this cause partially flooded at times to a
great extent, even in the dry season, is uninhabited. On the Kachchh side, the
country above Kotasir presents to the view a confused mass of rugged broken
hills, evidently of volcanic formation, which at a distance assume the
appearance of moderately elevated table-land: here and there the small spurs
sent off from them project in low promontories into the river, and the rocks
extend under water half way across its bed: the only mountains seen are the
J'harah hills, situated 8 miles to the S. E. of Lakhpat, which are about 1000 feet
high
From Lal
Chettah, a small mosque 10
miles above Kotasir, the low hillocks on the Kachchh side run in a direct line
up to Lakhpat; but the river, receding gradually from them for some miles, and
then turning suddenly towards that town, leaves an extensive tract of low land
at their bases of alluvial formation: this is said to have sunk several feet in
some places during the earthquake, and a small fort in the upper part erected
close to the river, the ruins of which are still visible, was overthrown.
During the inundation it is now covered with water to some depth, and in the
dry season salt is obtained in large
quantities from those parts that are below the level of the river. Near Lal
Chettah, where the stream is 2.5 miles wide, a large rock covered with oysters
rises in the centre of the deep channel, and on the opposite side of the river
there is a ruined fort, called Bastah Bander [Baster Bunder], which formerly
belonged to the Raos (princes or chieftans) of Kachchh, and was destroyed by
the Sindians during their wars with those princes.
Kotasir is a small village and pagoda on the
Kachchh side, situated about 16 miles from the sea, and is dependent on
Naransir (Narayan-Sir) a fortified town full of pagodas, about a mile farther
inland: they are both celebrated places of pilgrimage of the Hindus, and are
said to be of equal antiquity with the most ancient of the Hindu temples in other
parts of India. The pagoda at Kotasir is erected on a small rocky eminence
close to the river, and, like all these edifices, has been constructed with
more solidity and strength than elegance: a broad terrace runs round it,
defended by a low massive wall with embrasures, and in these several small guns
are mounted. One side of the hillock on which it stands is bounded by the swamp
that now occupies the site of the old bed of the river, and before it, a mud
flat extends from the banks, about a hundred yards into the stream: across this
flat a handsome stone causeway has been carried out to another but smaller
temple, where there is a large tank built in the river for the convenience of
the pilgrims when performing their ablutions.
The fortified
town of Lakhpat is
built upon the edge of the elevated land, about a mile from the river, and
incloses a space about 800 yards square, of which not more than a third is
occupied by houses. It is of an irregular shape, and the walls are defended by
numerous towers and bastions, with guns mounted on them of all sorts and sizes.
Most of them are so old as to be entirely useless; but one, a long brass
six-pounder, with the arms of Portugal engraved on it, deserves some notice, from
the peculiarity of its construction. In the upper part of the breach there is a
square piece cut out, about 2 feet long, and 8 inches wide, which admits of a
small gun being placed inside the large one, with the muzzle projecting about a
foot beyond the open part. It is furnished with a handle, and appears to have
been contrived for loading with greater celerity and safety.
Lakhpat was built
about thirty-five years ago[c.1805], by Jemahdar Fateh Mohammed, a celebrated Kachchh
general, to defend the frontiers of the kingdom against the encroachments of
the Sindians. It is now garrisoned by 50 Arabs and 150 native soldiers, and
contains a population of about 5000 persons, composed principally of merchants
and Hindus, who have fled from Sind to escape the tyranny of the Amirs. About
the town the country is barren and unproductive; and, from the quantity of
shells found in the soil in most parts, has probably at a remote period been
submerged. Koteri [Kotri],
the landing-place on the Sind side, where there is a small custom house and
guard, is 4 miles below Lakhpat, and numerous ferry boats are constantly
passing between them, full of men, cattle, and merchandise, From this station
the goods are conveyed on camels to the
eastern parts of the Delta, and distributed throughout the inhabited districts
of the Thar (=desert, from the Sanskrit St'hala).
Ruined structures within Lakhpat Fort
The effects of
the earthquake that visited Kachchh in 1819, and laid most of its towns in
ruins, are visible in every part of the Kori. Opposite Kotasir the banks of the
river on the Sind side are perpendicular for about three miles, and close along
them there is a depth of 14 fathoms, In this part the land is of alluvial
formation; but all the strata exposed to view in the face of the banks, with
the exception of two or three of the upper ones that have been deposited since,
are broken up in confused masses, and inclined to the horizon at an angle of 80
or 40 degrees. This is also the case throughout the tract of low land lying at
the base of the hillocks between Lakhpat and Lal Chettah. Previous to the
earthquake, the river, instead of pursuing the course it now does, turned close
round the rocky eminence on which Kotasir is built, and reached the sea between
its present mouth and the Jakau creek. Along this line the country is
overflowed at high tide to a depth of 2 or 3 feet; and the old banks may still
be traced, The alterations that have taken place in this part of the river are
very extensive, and have evidently been produced by the sinking and upheaving
of the ground during this awful convulsion of nature. The fact is attested by
the remains of several boats, which are still visible) half buried in the soil
that fills up the bed of the old river) and it is probable that to this cause
the Kori owes its present magnitude.